Frequently Asked Questions
Below are some common questions and answers that we often receive. They should be considered as general information and may not apply to all situations. We encourage you to ask one of our trained lawn technicians or call the office during regular business hours if you have a special problem. We'll be more than happy to discuss possible solutions specifically designed to address your situation.
A: Pre-emergent applications put down a microscopic layer on the soil that prevents many seeds from sprouting, including crabgrass. This invisible shield is usually put down in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees. It remains active throughout the spring and most of the summer months when the seeds begin to germinate, unless the soil is vigorously raked or dug up.
A: No. In fact, rain enhances the application and gives it a more even coating
A: The treatment usually dries within 2 hours. However, we recommend that you keep children and pets off the lawn for about 12 hours if possible. Avoid mowing the lawn for 24 hours after the treatment and mow at about 3".
A: No. The pre-emergent will also stop desired grass from growing also. It is generally better to wait until the fall to plant new grass seed after a pre-emergent application has been put down. However, there are some special situations that we can help you with. Please call our office to discuss your situation.
A: Slow release fertilizers are actually microscopic coated capsules of fertilizer that breakdown and release their important fertilizer and trace elements over a long period of time. This ensures that your lawn's root system gets those nutrients in measured doses that won't over-stimulate the plants into a sudden growing spurt requiring more mowing.
A: Lime is a naturally occurring element that can be applied to the lawn to help balance the soil's pH so that it is more conducive for turf grasses to thrive. Included in a lime treatment is also a calcium supplement. Lime naturally helps control the acidity in top soil. To get the full benefit of readily available food to your lawn, the top soil must have the optimum pH level. If the pH level is too high, the soil is not able to break down the nutrients in the soil and makes it more difficult for your turf grass to absorb those nutrients. Some soils may require more than one treatment per season. Our lawn technicians will be able to give you an accurate assessment of your soil's condition.
A: Grubs are actually the larval stage of a variety of different kinds of beetles, including May and June bugs and voracious Japanese beetles. Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil in mid to late summer. As the eggs hatch, they develop into the white-wormish looking larvae. As the larvae grow, they work their way down to the root zone of your lawn where they eat the roots. Early fall, you'll suddenly notice dead patches of lawn start showing up in your lawn if you have grubs. By this time, it is too late to effectively treat for them and they will begin the process again. Grub control is largely a matter of timing so that they can be controlled in their early stages of development and before they go deep into the soil and go dormant for the winter. In our area, early summer is the best time to treat. We use a product specifically designed to control grubs and won't harm other beneficial insects commonly found in the soil.